tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-54749444191932063742024-02-07T14:14:26.708-07:00Brandon's ProjectsThis is a blog meant to give demonstrations of how to do various projects. These projects will vary from car repair to building a deck to making a doll house.Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-34988335474280729602014-05-12T21:16:00.000-06:002014-05-12T21:16:06.413-06:00RummyThe last couple of months I've been working on making a <a href="http://www.cecese.com/rummy/">free rummy game</a>. I've registered that domain name (cecese.com), where I will be putting some of the things I work on.<br />
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<a href="http://www.cecese.com/rummy/">http://www.cecese.com/rummy/</a><br />
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Have fun!Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-2820440305186017592011-07-25T11:34:00.000-06:002011-07-25T11:34:43.469-06:00I have a new JavaScript blogI have a new JavaScript blog. <br />
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<a href="http://tripleequals.blogspot.com">http://tripleequals.blogspot.com</a>Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-48118456760900909802008-12-13T21:24:00.003-07:002008-12-13T21:32:22.304-07:00Plantation Shutters: PaintingWhile I love the look of stained wood shutters... they wouldn't match our house. So I choose to paint ours white. I painted each of the pieces separately before assembling. It would be difficult to keep the paint off the louver pins otherwise, which would violate one of the most important rules of this step which is to maintain smooth movement of the louvers.<br /><br />I choose to use a pure white interior semi gloss paint, which is fairly common for trim work. I found that three coats gave the desired look. I did this by hand with a brush, but some suggest using a sprayer. I imagine this would be much faster. I admit that the painting took me nearly as long as all the other steps combined. :( There really isn't anything tricky to this step. Just time consuming.<br /><br />My daughter has expressed interest in having some shutters that "look like wood", so I would like to try that someday. The process should be similar, substituting stain and a top coat for the paint.Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-53754029389645168952008-12-13T20:00:00.003-07:002008-12-13T21:11:51.590-07:00Plantation Shutters: Making the tilt rodsThe tilt rods are the thin pieces which are moved to control the angle of the louvers. The length needs to be just slightly longer than the distance between your top louver pin and you bottom pin. I like to leave 1/2" sticking out beyond the end louvers... so in my case the distance between the two pins was 30", so I made the tilt rods 31" long (1/2" on each end).<br /><br />I prefer to make each rod 1/2" wide and 3/4" thick, however it is reasonable to make them 1/2" thick... it just depends on whether you want a thin unobtrusive tilt rod or a sturdy feeling thicker tilt rod.<br /><br />You can easily make the tilt rods for both shutters (and several more) from a single board. Simply use the rip fence on the table saw to rip each side to the desired width and thickness.<br /><br />The next step is to round off the outer edges of each tilt rod. I used the same 3/16" roundover bit, but you can adapt to your personal preferences. I only round the edges that will face the user... the two edges facing the window are left square.<br /><br />The final step is to use a fastener of some sort that will allow the louver to pivot but still firmly fix the tilt rod to the louver. After some research and experimentation I found the cheapest and easiest way is to use strong staples. I bought <a href="http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=HT_CONS_FAST&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=TR150HL&SDesc=SharpShooter%26%23174%3B+Heavy+Duty+Staple+Gun">this Stanley Sharpshooter staple gun</a> from Home Depot. It has two depth levels. Neither of these will sink the staple all the way in... which is ideal. Each staple should stick out above the wood between 1/8" and 1/4". The matching staple on the louver will do the same and interlock with the other.<br /><br />Mark each place on the tilt rod where a louver pin would hit and staple each spot parellel to the length of the rod. This is important... don't staple perpendicular to the length because this wouldn't allow the freedom of movement needed. You may notice the staples feel somewhat flimsy and as if they won't hold. To fix this I used a small dab of <a href="http://www.gorillaglue.com/">gorilla glue</a> at each point where the staple touches the wood. After drying this will be sufficiently strong.<br /><br />One last point. I didn't put in the staples until after I painted the tilt rod, but if you are careful it should still work to do it beforehand.Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-58882354878023423742008-12-05T17:29:00.004-07:002008-12-05T18:20:31.103-07:00Plantation Shutters: Making the railsThe rails are the horizontal components of the shutter frame. I make them from 4/4 lumber.<br /><br />The hardest part is determining how tall the rails should be. I use the rail as a buffer to absorb extra space or to allow more room when needed. This is because the louvers will not exactly fill the space. A little experimentation should find a good height. For the proper proportions, I like to have them somewhere between 4 and 5 inches. The length of the rails is determined by the width of your window.<br /><br />I have found that tapering one edge lengthwise of the rail helps the louvers close more tightly and thus block out more light. The side that should be tapered is the side that will contact the louver. For the bottom rails, this will be the top edge. For the top rails, it will be the bottom edge. I prefer to taper both the front and back of the edge so there is a point in the center. I cut the tapers at a 25 degree angle on the table saw.<br /><br />You will not need to round the edges of these pieces, so the final step is to drill pilot holes that will match up with pilot holes in your stiles. Use the same spacing and bit size.<br /><br />This is a picture of my rails before I cut the tapers:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH2Q_7RD6lCDQtCd_FEvn4aEc6crSbh0HAJ1svfi4wdjehth1UP4JdqUTHQEg1P_IMPVTuYFmTVjONeWxJO7zLBEvzhiZKhCXMdLXSAC81LjyGGEylAVkL7OfiynvzHdRCYCrk36nJk9Q/s1600-h/DSC_0021+%282%29.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH2Q_7RD6lCDQtCd_FEvn4aEc6crSbh0HAJ1svfi4wdjehth1UP4JdqUTHQEg1P_IMPVTuYFmTVjONeWxJO7zLBEvzhiZKhCXMdLXSAC81LjyGGEylAVkL7OfiynvzHdRCYCrk36nJk9Q/s400/DSC_0021+%282%29.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276479763200838994" border="0" /></a>Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-59604192529077887522008-12-05T15:15:00.007-07:002008-12-05T15:25:35.950-07:00Plantation Shutters: Making the stilesThe stiles are the vertical pieces of the shutter frame. The scale of your window may change things, but I prefer to make them 1.25" thick (deep) and 1.5" wide. The length will be determined by the height of your window.<br /><br />I make these from the 6/4 rough cut lumber. I prefer to buy a piece wide enough that all four stiles can be cut from it. This is a picture of the pieces put back together after I cut them:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ktXFJrUcAImZby9kgA1YhiAJhfgd_j7zSx1kp42UvUCj2ITX1Ra_CPSva4-pNdR42i5kgT2TUwUYmUkrra-iL7gf-qLcGMg_rREunU3t91uTT4QM2-mDQvGShfxxyzla2SA5cTJndH8/s1600-h/DSC_0202.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 84px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ktXFJrUcAImZby9kgA1YhiAJhfgd_j7zSx1kp42UvUCj2ITX1Ra_CPSva4-pNdR42i5kgT2TUwUYmUkrra-iL7gf-qLcGMg_rREunU3t91uTT4QM2-mDQvGShfxxyzla2SA5cTJndH8/s400/DSC_0202.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276433602437857250" border="0" /></a></div>To do this I cut the left and right 1/8" edges off the board with the table saw. This smooths off the "rough sawn" nature of the board and gives a more consistent surface to work with. Next I cut the board into 1.5" strips. Then I turn each on its side and again take off about 1/8" from each side. This will take the 1.5" (6/4) down to 1.25". Then cut each piece to the desired length (the height to fit in your window).<br /><br />Now that you have four distinct pieces of wood / future stiles... use the same roundover bit on each edge to give a more professional look.<br /><br />Next you will need to drill pilot holes for the screws which will hold the rails and stiles together. The bit size will depend on your wood and screw size. I believe I used an 1/8" bit with 2.5" #8 screws. This shows where I drilled the holes:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR9KJFpeybau1NOX7e-FX0_pYCjgosttWNs8ZYoEdAj-ScW3fDLu2cRYsvAjSyTGuRK5sXSfeyia32PpZPM4IrH2U5EshZy9ij07sSAA0h_MgrPEvbPuNODVTT9bKx6F1uiaRJFqtT3C0/s1600-h/DSC_0024+%282%29.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR9KJFpeybau1NOX7e-FX0_pYCjgosttWNs8ZYoEdAj-ScW3fDLu2cRYsvAjSyTGuRK5sXSfeyia32PpZPM4IrH2U5EshZy9ij07sSAA0h_MgrPEvbPuNODVTT9bKx6F1uiaRJFqtT3C0/s400/DSC_0024+%282%29.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276434042497645170" border="0" /></a><br />The hole closest to end is 1" from the end and the other is 2.5" from the end. Each is countersunk and centered within the piece.<br /><br />Finally, you need to drill holes to receive the louver pin. These should be 1/4" diameter and 3/8" deep. The placement of these holes goes as follows:<br />If you have 3" louvers and want them to overlap by 1/4", place the holes every 2.75". Center the holes within the stile and make sure you choose the right number. You may need to adjust the rail height to accomodate the louvers.<br /><br />This is a picture of the holes I marked:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGjYn9dhD95vh2nXX_m_294Oxa-0WGA6NIZ4acK-_U6Q1OoFweM8PDTg4KIefbYW9deq3bI8jVWLKTiN8M5ssRvGMqTBrjr4wmCwHgYhDci5b6vsD4zUncuNMktzARXObJFECBucBAE-I/s1600-h/DSC_0010+%282%29.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGjYn9dhD95vh2nXX_m_294Oxa-0WGA6NIZ4acK-_U6Q1OoFweM8PDTg4KIefbYW9deq3bI8jVWLKTiN8M5ssRvGMqTBrjr4wmCwHgYhDci5b6vsD4zUncuNMktzARXObJFECBucBAE-I/s400/DSC_0010+%282%29.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276434398521715858" border="0" /></a><br /><br />and then drilled:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaynJ4Q0r39-XpnKa3WW1bLN6XERxFbVMSqsEXN2ii3I_489ll5l5JishHUJ94nlkMlgDKv1z_YW5pnhXpaSyzbDjjeU-1HyLaa0lEg2nfM3QVpUQ4D0jMZ3veYdH0H3nGE2n-jBaM2O8/s1600-h/DSC_0011+%282%29.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaynJ4Q0r39-XpnKa3WW1bLN6XERxFbVMSqsEXN2ii3I_489ll5l5JishHUJ94nlkMlgDKv1z_YW5pnhXpaSyzbDjjeU-1HyLaa0lEg2nfM3QVpUQ4D0jMZ3veYdH0H3nGE2n-jBaM2O8/s400/DSC_0011+%282%29.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276435011413442882" border="0" /></a>Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-14366575167430247132008-12-05T14:15:00.004-07:002008-12-05T14:21:47.903-07:00Plantation Shutters: Making the louversAs stated earlier, louvers are the slats that can rotate within the shutter frame to either block or allow more light to enter through the window. The easiest way of creating these is to buy "sheets" from <a href="http://nationalbalsa.com/basswood.htm">National Balsa</a>. Determine what length you need the pieces to be and buy the size that is exactly right or larger.<br /><br />Once the pieces arrive, your first step is to round all four edges of the piece. I wanted the edges to have a continuous rounded edge rather than an elliptical one. Each piece should be 3/8" thick... so using a 3/16" roundover bit produces this result. <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100098148">This Porter Cable bit</a> is the one I bought. This is a relatively easy thing to do, but doing four sides of 26 pieces that are each 3 feet long... takes about an hour.<br /><br />This is what they should look like when you are done:<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pqY52JDSA0YkM0GAeLfsw5RA-Tes3Er5pQBVrAjqERF6U0wLGglsRz41tvdeox6mjba6S74yCPTnt5vHTbzUg2QHPRRzSGaxePht6csM7w2aPOyCMvMnjFFJb5uYbh2UlvsAAuZ_uT4/s1600-h/DSC_0192.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 205px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pqY52JDSA0YkM0GAeLfsw5RA-Tes3Er5pQBVrAjqERF6U0wLGglsRz41tvdeox6mjba6S74yCPTnt5vHTbzUg2QHPRRzSGaxePht6csM7w2aPOyCMvMnjFFJb5uYbh2UlvsAAuZ_uT4/s400/DSC_0192.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276419061892260130" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Once the pieces are nicely rounded off, cut the pieces to the desired length. It looks much more professional if you can get all the pieces exactly the same length.<br /><br />Now you will need to drill holes in the ends of louvers to accept the louver pins. Drill a 9/64" hole at least 5/8" deep.<br /><br />I highly suggest using nylon shutter pins rather than dowels. This will allow much smoother movement. I bought 1,000 pins for about $30 from <a href="http://www.profhdwr.com/34500.htm">Professional Hardware</a>.Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-48927475191493049982008-10-05T19:43:00.002-06:002008-10-05T20:36:36.357-06:00Plantation Shutters: Tools<p class="MsoNormal">Having the correct tools can make all the difference in a project.<span style=""> </span>This certainly applies if you want to make plantation shutters.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I found many of my tools from the local classified ads.<span style=""> </span>I bought a used 10” Delta table saw for $60 and a Craftsman router and Wolfcraft router table for $65.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">A table saw is important because you will be making many cuts and a table saw is the easiest way to get a relatively straight cut.<span style=""> </span>Sometimes you will be cutting pieces across the width (called cross cutting) and sometimes you will be cutting pieces the whole length of the board (called ripping).<span style=""> </span>I found that for ripping large hardwood boards, my standard blade took forever and tended to burn the boards.<span style=""> </span>So I bought a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/D1024X-Diablo-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2V">Diablo blade</a> which works far better.<span style=""> It is specifically meant for ripping boards. </span>The only drawback is that it leaves the edges slightly rougher than a blade with more teeth.<span style=""> </span>In general the more teeth on a blade the more polished a cut will be, but less teeth will cut easier and quicker.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">A router will allow you to round or finish off the edges of boards.<span style=""> </span>This is an essential step in making your project look more professional.<span style=""> </span>Although the router table is optional, it makes it MUCH easier to do lots of boards quickly.<span style=""> </span>You will need a bit for the router, and I chose a <a href="http://www.toolking.com/porter-cable_43085pc.aspx">3/16” roundover bit</a> which I will explain in a later post.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">A drill with various size bits is also needed.<span style=""> </span>I bought a new <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100546220&N=10000003+500859+90076">Ridgid drill</a> recently from Home Depot that I have been very happy with.<span style=""> </span>I believe it was about $60.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">If you don’t already have these tools it can cause the initial cost to be somewhat higher, though for subsequent shutters I have found I can make a standard size pair for about $150.<span style=""> </span>That beats paying $500+ from a manufacturer.</p>Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-31766153882804297842008-10-05T18:15:00.005-06:002008-10-05T18:57:38.893-06:00Plantation Shutters: Choice of woodBasswood is commonly considered the best wood to make shutters from. It is a hardwood (comes from the linden tree) although it is relatively soft. It is also lightweight and stains or paints well.<br /><br />A second choice is to use poplar. It is harder and heavier, and can sometimes have a greenish cast to it which may be an issue if staining. Poplar is more readily available though (it can be found at <a href="http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&N=4294961544&Ne=4294967294&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=poplar">Lowes</a> or <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/">Home Depot</a>).<br /><br />Finally some people will make shutters out of oak or even maple. These will result in shutters that are much heavier and more expensive, although they will wear better and possibly match other trim in your house that is oak or maple.<br /><br />I buy the wood for the stiles and rails from a local hardwood supplier (<a href="http://macbeath.com/">MacBeath Hardwood</a>). They have a large variety of different hardwoods for a good price, however the lumber is somewhat different than your standard Lowes or Home Depot boards. It is mostly rough sawn, with 2 sides surfaced. This means that two sides will be pretty rough wood (sometimes even bark) and the other two will be smoother, although still need sanding or to be planed. The thickness of the wood is stated in quarters of an inch… so 4/4 is said “four quarters” and refers to boards an inch thick. 6/4 and 8/4 are other common sizes.<br /><br />Make sure to measure the wood and don’t assume 4/4 is truly an inch. The wood will shrink as it dries, which can sometimes cause one inch to become ¾. In this case the “actual width” would be ¾” while the “nominal width” is 1”. On that note, make sure the wood you buy has already been dried (preferably kiln dried) or you will have problems.<br /><br />The quantity of wood you are buying is measured in board feet. 1 board foot = 144 cubic inches. To calculate multiply the width of the board by the length of the board by the thickness of the board (all in inches). Then divide by 144. For example: a board 5 inches wide 30 inches long and 2 inches thick will be (5 X 30 X 2) / 144 = 2.08 board feet. I pay about $2.90 per bd ft for Basswood at Macbeath.<br /><br />Going into a store like this is slightly intimidating for the first time… the employees point you to a bin with randomly sized boards in it. You can choose whichever boards you want and they will cut off portions as long as there is 6 feet left to put back in the bin. I always fumble around for awhile trying to find one that is close to the size I want without too much extra, but I get there eventually.<br /><br />This is a picture of a 6/4 board and two 4/4 boards I bought from MacBeath:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kmIlh2VfjXGDR8aDykyQnjtyLbvvswuaRW7QN8OEVDLDNvSY1bNpyD3MBvNgtFFHj9bhlQ-Le3xdKz-XfBHHiFHYLVEBdsVBpffefZQGIlH2TPGhSeuPGVnbzGS41Lhbx-vNviBEin0/s1600-h/09-29-2008%2301.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kmIlh2VfjXGDR8aDykyQnjtyLbvvswuaRW7QN8OEVDLDNvSY1bNpyD3MBvNgtFFHj9bhlQ-Le3xdKz-XfBHHiFHYLVEBdsVBpffefZQGIlH2TPGhSeuPGVnbzGS41Lhbx-vNviBEin0/s400/09-29-2008%2301.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253830979208060754" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I buy the wood for the louvers from a place called <a href="http://nationalbalsa.com/basswood.htm">National Balsa</a>. They sell “sheets” of basswood which greatly reduce the labor needed to produce the louvers. I will give the details of the louvers in a later post, but I prefer to buy 3/8” thick pieces that are 3” wide and 36” long, although the length will vary for your window. The cost is slightly higher than buying rough lumber, but it makes a higher quality louver with less work. Tilt rods can be made from their “sticks” also.<br /><br />These are a couple pictures of a shipment of I just received from them:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbl7MeXa0ivU-UzYSuVT7iK8yZmrknNCfP7VM2kr4rYuTs_tpXzXfNuzexMEsqgYC_gtY6AxV3N9kwLURfWmXuO9nSvOemkzns5gOAvRuPGXojsRYMHee5xWdbE9WPdKEvYiDzKGcXkA/s1600-h/DSC_0183.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbl7MeXa0ivU-UzYSuVT7iK8yZmrknNCfP7VM2kr4rYuTs_tpXzXfNuzexMEsqgYC_gtY6AxV3N9kwLURfWmXuO9nSvOemkzns5gOAvRuPGXojsRYMHee5xWdbE9WPdKEvYiDzKGcXkA/s400/DSC_0183.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253838093754992178" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgE3sf5RcogyaJY43ZqF8t2gBF_4zf-wEuVbU5CJqaPqBf6eLb9lNnqfwGwhMpzu5TeTK2iHYVx8sM-v1LdPmIo9pdHDB2sTNHRkfAXHVyj5fr-pDPOb1OkUYSP0hVzu5f246CnT70SUw/s1600-h/DSC_0184.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgE3sf5RcogyaJY43ZqF8t2gBF_4zf-wEuVbU5CJqaPqBf6eLb9lNnqfwGwhMpzu5TeTK2iHYVx8sM-v1LdPmIo9pdHDB2sTNHRkfAXHVyj5fr-pDPOb1OkUYSP0hVzu5f246CnT70SUw/s400/DSC_0184.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253838104777893986" border="0" /></a>Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-79584897712994532312008-10-05T18:05:00.004-06:002008-10-05T18:14:38.122-06:00Plantation Shutters: Shutter AnatomyLet’s start by talking about the different pieces of a shutter. This picture diagrams the major parts:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfbxaXFU67IkWW8roec2_f19R-E5M9_VflYpTh8fkQsz9arwYtFJZuH7T7Fgm7m76sDNiJBM87otmGmAfQYATd1YkIFhyphenhyphen18t1uT9S2Ku1NXdwN8m4lJL04-pA0Ll5rA5olOfqSFE4zTA/s1600-h/shutters.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfbxaXFU67IkWW8roec2_f19R-E5M9_VflYpTh8fkQsz9arwYtFJZuH7T7Fgm7m76sDNiJBM87otmGmAfQYATd1YkIFhyphenhyphen18t1uT9S2Ku1NXdwN8m4lJL04-pA0Ll5rA5olOfqSFE4zTA/s400/shutters.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253826215467054706" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><ul><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Stiles:</span> The stiles make up the vertical pieces of the frame. They run the height of the shutters and I make them 1 ½” wide and 1 ¼” thick.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Rails:</span> The rails are the horizontal part of the frame. They span the distance between the stiles. I make them ¾” thick and the height varies depending on window and louver size.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Louvers:</span> Often called slats. These are the moveable pieces which block light or open up to allow a better view. Often these are called the slats. Plantation shutters usually have wider louvers that are 3 or more inches. Less than 3 inches is often called traditional or colonial shutters.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Tilt Rod: </span> This is the narrow piece which coordinates the placement of the louvers. When a user adjusts the louvers, it is done through the tilt rod. I make these ½” wide and ½” thick. The length will run from the center of top louver to the center of the bottom louver.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Hinges: </span> The hinges allow the shutters to be swung open, allowing more light in or possibly allow access to the window.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Catches: </span> The catches keep the shutters from rotating open freely. This is usually done with a magnet or a springy metal device.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Hang strip:</span> (See below) Depending on your windows, a hanging strip may be necessary. These provide a solid, structurally sound surface to mount the hinges to.</li></ul><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHOv7ulZppRBYvoUby8w9aWWUmSLJVT2dLwb6jy-lo6-R0m7DQxBLz5-6AWTho4hYGxm3nP36iKg5W5M9FZ2L8Xu-hVW1ol7KLEwDYMh8O64sGcWC9agfg2Udv6Av0_zpZHoFbcjt8evY/s1600-h/RealPic.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHOv7ulZppRBYvoUby8w9aWWUmSLJVT2dLwb6jy-lo6-R0m7DQxBLz5-6AWTho4hYGxm3nP36iKg5W5M9FZ2L8Xu-hVW1ol7KLEwDYMh8O64sGcWC9agfg2Udv6Av0_zpZHoFbcjt8evY/s400/RealPic.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253827238771947474" border="0" /></a>Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-66562153885737597582008-09-22T22:00:00.004-06:002008-09-22T22:05:48.038-06:00The shutters are done!I have FINALLY finished the first set of plantation shutters. Here are a couple pictures:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVd7_vrgRtWag5MJ0vzD2VqR06ZoZeAsqz3FpyxE2LTwuxzoqogOSkxYP3vI-NV2JP3mimXkDOC88hsUXn7ukPGe8YpAgeWgc7VBscGGVkeiRKvw_jjJCImCuJ_9-z4-3eddTDONGr7aE/s1600-h/DSC_0234.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVd7_vrgRtWag5MJ0vzD2VqR06ZoZeAsqz3FpyxE2LTwuxzoqogOSkxYP3vI-NV2JP3mimXkDOC88hsUXn7ukPGe8YpAgeWgc7VBscGGVkeiRKvw_jjJCImCuJ_9-z4-3eddTDONGr7aE/s320/DSC_0234.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5249062194146360450" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXSs2jBMlq7i9ThiF0k_abn6pn1LdxtBL9bQv2zBofU4hsEh6aiH8_DTOEsO0Xa3eNS8VZEExlIsrKaoaxbFGA4qGJVqB1QIWvPm44Xi7MJ41KEpLYgEE6N9BPGyaL0koSaF44gjcikcc/s1600-h/DSC_0235.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXSs2jBMlq7i9ThiF0k_abn6pn1LdxtBL9bQv2zBofU4hsEh6aiH8_DTOEsO0Xa3eNS8VZEExlIsrKaoaxbFGA4qGJVqB1QIWvPm44Xi7MJ41KEpLYgEE6N9BPGyaL0koSaF44gjcikcc/s320/DSC_0235.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5249062363235829538" border="0" /></a><br />I made a lot of mistakes in the process and didn't want to write the "how to" blog until I knew how to do it right... so I am going to document the creation of the second set of shutters instead. I will probably be starting this week.Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-50785687394860933672008-08-17T23:00:00.004-06:002008-08-17T23:06:31.371-06:00Next project: Plantation ShuttersI've started on my next project. Plantation shutters! I created a google sketchup model of what I hope they will look like:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHtAHX8fcFct2tEOt5XXCJ1bHBhFsiRhDGppak7Wow89u7rrCCB1bKLTdG4uN-FwFuWLxfdJ1G4d_ExtzucgJfhZpiiKX9TD4vzurcNzsV61hKN42_ee7kDwF9jZYD0adRQZ4ya57R94/s1600-h/shutters.png"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHtAHX8fcFct2tEOt5XXCJ1bHBhFsiRhDGppak7Wow89u7rrCCB1bKLTdG4uN-FwFuWLxfdJ1G4d_ExtzucgJfhZpiiKX9TD4vzurcNzsV61hKN42_ee7kDwF9jZYD0adRQZ4ya57R94/s320/shutters.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5235718755725601362" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Yesterday I bought a used table saw and a used router/table combination. I haven't had a chance to play with them to see how they work though... I will probably buy the lumber and hardware this week...Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5474944419193206374.post-24125909698296753072008-07-21T22:29:00.017-06:002009-10-13T21:27:08.167-06:00Windstar brake pressure deactivation switch<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">UPDATE --- Ford is issuing a recall because of the problem discussed below. Rather than fixing it yourself, you would be best to take it into a dealer and have them do it for free. You will need to do this before Dec 18, 2009! </span><a style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;" href="http://nhthqnwws112.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/docservlet/Artemis/Public/Recalls/2009/V/RCDNN-09V399-7837.pdf">This</a><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"> is a the official document describing the recall. </span><br /><br /><br />Several weeks ago the “check brakes” light came on in our 2000 Ford Windstar. The next day the speedometer quit working, the air conditioner would only blow hot air, and the odometer only showed dashes.<br /><br />After a little research, I found that this is a very common problem with Windstars. There is a switch (called the brake pressure deactivation switch) hooked to the braking system that detects when the brake has been pushed and stops the cruise control accordingly. Well… this switch is known to develop leaks, which allows brake fluid to run down into the wiring and cause a short. This blows the fuse which controls the speedometer, A/C, odometer, etc…<br /><br />With a little more research I found the parts were inexpensive and it was a relatively easy DIY fix. So, here is a documentation of “what worked for me”. Hopefully anyone else with this same problem will find this helpful. Of course, differences between different model years may vary these steps somewhat. And by the way… while I hope this post helps someone, I’m not legally responsible for anything you do to your vehicle or the consequences thereof.<br /><br />Your first step is to see if your fuse is blown. The fuse box which holds the fuse is located under the dashboard on the driver’s side. The green arrows in these pictures point to it:<br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:100%;" ><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz25UfT2Rs3F0r6t8Gfp9ka0PzxYofcgF8TLWGSSJrYxSD942WHAchNk_t_Tpu4KAB3uQabh_U_uA9B72sUs8gU18wHEIP9I11Z0-0bZcFcKL1CTDFt1tzzjBetnBOo-q4AeQErhDKr98/s1600-h/01FuseBox1.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz25UfT2Rs3F0r6t8Gfp9ka0PzxYofcgF8TLWGSSJrYxSD942WHAchNk_t_Tpu4KAB3uQabh_U_uA9B72sUs8gU18wHEIP9I11Z0-0bZcFcKL1CTDFt1tzzjBetnBOo-q4AeQErhDKr98/s320/01FuseBox1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226079370407147202" border="0" /><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPHjDdi15PsPTGcnPeO67SgKpyrCGeLK4QhNbjVNMjcxphD9ac_3pqo8Jx0fbvE1GT7qSV1yBq7WHSFYW9Jjd-Ncf9-5IjUlJpuVkgO7s3oA0Lu3Y1VNTuqWgDas7igjcCKb1nfyI9EbY/s1600-h/02FuseBox2.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPHjDdi15PsPTGcnPeO67SgKpyrCGeLK4QhNbjVNMjcxphD9ac_3pqo8Jx0fbvE1GT7qSV1yBq7WHSFYW9Jjd-Ncf9-5IjUlJpuVkgO7s3oA0Lu3Y1VNTuqWgDas7igjcCKb1nfyI9EbY/s320/02FuseBox2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226079578375223810" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />There is a black cover on the fuse box. Holding the bottom of the cover, pull it away from the box to remove it. Now you should see something similar to this:<br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:100%;" ><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65JWMlzesfk-iTc1al9z4H8P6Rp2jwCrsCDIKWwqicBwVmlWuRXrWkUcGhJrzvJPDcHnkwhONFNmnxwSaBKQauwnVuJKjyFnMBLW4LqH2BHoK1s2o7Wovdc6GFFVawyDWOYd4PLh2W60/s1600-h/03Fuses.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65JWMlzesfk-iTc1al9z4H8P6Rp2jwCrsCDIKWwqicBwVmlWuRXrWkUcGhJrzvJPDcHnkwhONFNmnxwSaBKQauwnVuJKjyFnMBLW4LqH2BHoK1s2o7Wovdc6GFFVawyDWOYd4PLh2W60/s320/03Fuses.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226079900977424050" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />Find the circled fuse (#10, according to the map on the cover), and pull it out. Hold the fuse up to light to see if it is blown or not. This is the picture of my blown fuse:<br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:100%;" ><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdllu5bVApo-Lj3ytGAY-VCTGZXB2BKzPvOBiIcjA8ND5n2Tz5VsfUVYsKVtJ38ki_6Z_5P26ionNLXX68AE8zEFnvA3FnVNS_AeYpq0gm5e1UOZtR9U-aNej6LuC5jbiTjaGWm1g1XJw/s1600-h/04BlownFuse.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdllu5bVApo-Lj3ytGAY-VCTGZXB2BKzPvOBiIcjA8ND5n2Tz5VsfUVYsKVtJ38ki_6Z_5P26ionNLXX68AE8zEFnvA3FnVNS_AeYpq0gm5e1UOZtR9U-aNej6LuC5jbiTjaGWm1g1XJw/s320/04BlownFuse.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226080243315708354" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />This is the picture of my new fuse:<br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLE8b8b3Wuo07f8q-V1hU5VQDmR2BaSsN9Py0i1oiaaMsQDH_HuGJiPxUb3VgfHPfTnNwV1DX2qoLS-4G_LMulJkJ8tx7EbdxfQ8ZDpB_JgxFcg_O-pnS9NMbr4VrsadFBs1FnRoFM-WA/s1600-h/05NewFuse.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLE8b8b3Wuo07f8q-V1hU5VQDmR2BaSsN9Py0i1oiaaMsQDH_HuGJiPxUb3VgfHPfTnNwV1DX2qoLS-4G_LMulJkJ8tx7EbdxfQ8ZDpB_JgxFcg_O-pnS9NMbr4VrsadFBs1FnRoFM-WA/s320/05NewFuse.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226080499583408290" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />If the fuse is blown, you will need to buy a new one. I bought mine at Wal-Mart for around $2.50. Make sure you get a fuse that matches your old one. I bought a pack of ATM 10 fuses made by Buss. Here is the package:<br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzUKTlWOIypnZvSJWcc5yUev7qKZi1XuseegPq3CdYZbJe5-In7QT_BBdusx244coBJ-rDia7EQyw18BKqxM9CbovhBq4kTWxFtU8m1Fou2j3AEUFCgJp9WHd1OwSLFMTinNXR3djfA8/s1600-h/06FusePackage.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzUKTlWOIypnZvSJWcc5yUev7qKZi1XuseegPq3CdYZbJe5-In7QT_BBdusx244coBJ-rDia7EQyw18BKqxM9CbovhBq4kTWxFtU8m1Fou2j3AEUFCgJp9WHd1OwSLFMTinNXR3djfA8/s320/06FusePackage.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226080726528676514" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />The next step is to verify that your brake pressure deactivation switch is truly at fault. To do this you will need to remove the air filter to get access to the switch. This is a picture looking at the front of the van with the hood up:<br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNQxuOcR_QT7HSk02nNeUjBTKPr8tD81HLhIWBiFqvKti7SEukUc9dRD2HciwWYy3ov5AQ5jydwlVvQRVNFOyWH0ByNwNzb55zPY56R7XcnvWTS8SKk4j_G3V-xfGrGYEyTkwkmJWHNQ/s1600-h/08ViewFrontFront.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNQxuOcR_QT7HSk02nNeUjBTKPr8tD81HLhIWBiFqvKti7SEukUc9dRD2HciwWYy3ov5AQ5jydwlVvQRVNFOyWH0ByNwNzb55zPY56R7XcnvWTS8SKk4j_G3V-xfGrGYEyTkwkmJWHNQ/s320/08ViewFrontFront.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226081049973039778" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />This short video clip shows me removing the air filter:<br /><div style="text-align: center;font-family:verdana;"><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxGlM-2CGcK4Dge-dFrlcZfEgKrDR0Ed1Q4sHROhw8KvT0Ue424CBdhob4H94zoyZ887zpdCw5qWAR28JI_zA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /></span><br /></div><br />This is what it should look like with the air filter removed:<br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:100%;" ><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZlIMtLOvbn6is3o6t_oMuYnOnoil0VV37HL3kTzBUSrgQtQFddrDafbmapGp8xvMN0i8A34schBqSL0wyUXm6XIEhcIDXMPTwIqJi6-Li7GiZB9jW7Wd2CalNezsCt35l77aJYBz0GJk/s1600-h/10AirFilterRemoved.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZlIMtLOvbn6is3o6t_oMuYnOnoil0VV37HL3kTzBUSrgQtQFddrDafbmapGp8xvMN0i8A34schBqSL0wyUXm6XIEhcIDXMPTwIqJi6-Li7GiZB9jW7Wd2CalNezsCt35l77aJYBz0GJk/s320/10AirFilterRemoved.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226081446657808882" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />The arrow points to the switch we are looking for (it doesn’t look like a traditional light switch). There is a cable plugged into the bottom of this switch. On mine the cable was wet with brake fluid and grime (more than normal). This is what caused the short. If yours is wet with fluid, you likely have the same issue I did.<br /><br />Next you will need to get a brake repair kit. Motorcraft makes the one I bought from my Ford dealership for $18.68. The part number is XW7Z-9F924-BA. This is what it looks like:<br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:100%;" ><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCd9xeHyv2InkSQUNJdBPzyzSvaSeORQQ0-_V0OcD62xKzAYoXhtz_9pFZm6cqHkBTDjAjjPsKEqBb6_v6CRDPqbKKRRq8HWOtH_Po3ydzm-KY3UPovc3ZECpwZmYtPv5HA-SBioVJsI4/s1600-h/07BrakeFixPackage.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCd9xeHyv2InkSQUNJdBPzyzSvaSeORQQ0-_V0OcD62xKzAYoXhtz_9pFZm6cqHkBTDjAjjPsKEqBb6_v6CRDPqbKKRRq8HWOtH_Po3ydzm-KY3UPovc3ZECpwZmYtPv5HA-SBioVJsI4/s320/07BrakeFixPackage.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226081924756851266" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />It consisted of a new switch, an adapter cable, and a plastic tie. You can also buy it online at <a href="https://www.tituswillfordparts.com/cart/?pn=XW7Z-9F924-BA&submit=Search">https://www.tituswillfordparts.com/</a><br />Now for replacing the switch… first you need to disconnect the cable that plugs into the bottom of the switch. Squeeze the sides and pull downward and it should come off. This is a picture of me pulling it off:<br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:100%;" ><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLzdKX8DEQKgy0z-0wJRl7ftbj-JjCEsc_Yd3xv59IPeHc2U0Ev20Lxf5Rt7KFfZNoTBrgKPrsGb0TDqlqEjZStJtYcdUkxkR8wyfG5hpuch0iHYyUoE5CXSiMEkcYUp_QppDTFfk0drk/s1600-h/11RemovingOldCable.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLzdKX8DEQKgy0z-0wJRl7ftbj-JjCEsc_Yd3xv59IPeHc2U0Ev20Lxf5Rt7KFfZNoTBrgKPrsGb0TDqlqEjZStJtYcdUkxkR8wyfG5hpuch0iHYyUoE5CXSiMEkcYUp_QppDTFfk0drk/s320/11RemovingOldCable.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226082387126652082" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />Next you need to get the new switch within easy reach. This is because when you take off the old switch, brake fluid will slowly leak out. The quicker you can screw the new switch in place, the less brake fluid you will lose. My new switch had a protective orange plastic cap over the threaded end. If yours has this, take it off now. With the new switch close at hand, use a 9/16 inch open ended wrench to loosen the old switch. Here is a picture of me doing it:<br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:100%;" ><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEW1zMi1TylFFzXMnCX0rxxFfO_SzRiC5USRY68dhVWSyiGiQxyDB4nzqK7-BrL_0F6UnsXMZ44VnhRitW0JXlVCQvEtvJhxsAIBMVCzTXiq6-kVpIKf_Pi0zY4aS8KjPnujfOTqtNf0M/s1600-h/12RemovingOldSwitch.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEW1zMi1TylFFzXMnCX0rxxFfO_SzRiC5USRY68dhVWSyiGiQxyDB4nzqK7-BrL_0F6UnsXMZ44VnhRitW0JXlVCQvEtvJhxsAIBMVCzTXiq6-kVpIKf_Pi0zY4aS8KjPnujfOTqtNf0M/s320/12RemovingOldSwitch.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226082384438857906" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />Unscrew it the rest of the way by hand and quickly screw the new one back in place. You may want something under the car to catch any brake fluid which drips out. I only lost a tablespoon or two.<br /><br />The repair kit should have come with a new cable. One end plugs into the new switch and the other end plugs into the old cable end. You may need to clean off the old cable a little to prevent a new short!<br /><br />This is a picture of the new cable installed:<br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFlybNdTQ5KBS7tUeEnmxwQNoEOzv8RL5wHuP-6ESBtJa5x2Z_vyJSa6wwjZ4vrCvODp0Iv0g9qvtsq-1lb0gNMCeG70XW01TmBY2qs1EThLuOMrZajG07qHS9XpajWHenpNqXh4V8F3c/s1600-h/13NewConnector.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFlybNdTQ5KBS7tUeEnmxwQNoEOzv8RL5wHuP-6ESBtJa5x2Z_vyJSa6wwjZ4vrCvODp0Iv0g9qvtsq-1lb0gNMCeG70XW01TmBY2qs1EThLuOMrZajG07qHS9XpajWHenpNqXh4V8F3c/s320/13NewConnector.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226082388875310258" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />Next, you can use the plastic tie to hold back the cable in a safe place. Here is a picture of how I routed it:<br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:100%;" ><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBvJ93dbEHO5y77WZFsw2iGljR9TML6aYQDh4VI_FmRX9rm9HyH3YSDNXlehG-WfWAUSqsWpCawOwiQ1M5_k0TAL8_Cl-XIB2gsbtpH5yL82Szd7K7pXrRVZsjpq_Q47defcVPsu8s9A/s1600-h/14TieBack.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBvJ93dbEHO5y77WZFsw2iGljR9TML6aYQDh4VI_FmRX9rm9HyH3YSDNXlehG-WfWAUSqsWpCawOwiQ1M5_k0TAL8_Cl-XIB2gsbtpH5yL82Szd7K7pXrRVZsjpq_Q47defcVPsu8s9A/s320/14TieBack.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226082389281505442" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />My brake fluid level was down significantly from leaking, so I then added fluid to the master cylinder (the plastic tank on top of the new switch). This is a little tricky to get a funnel into, so I used a short piece of CLEAN plastic tubing to pour it in.<br /><br />Now simply reinstall the air filter (don’t forget to reconnect the hose in the back!), and replace the fuse if you haven’t already.<br /><br />Some sites recommend disconnecting the battery when replacing the fuse. I didn’t, but it is probably good advice.<br /><br />After everything is reassembled, start the car. You should having a working air conditioner, odometer, speedometer, and no “check brake” light on your dashboard. If the brake light is still on, double check the fluid level again. Mine needed almost half a pint.<br /><br />Finally here is a picture of the old part:<br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHabJtZ6zJ8fvlZyn5pGVvZoyMquLDoOIApn8NqqgZAkQw9ZcnC7AITn_1uBAvJGA2JBsq5-BnKsyWQ1DmU8hyphenhyphen4QDjMjnw96v1wB5iBJbIdGVwwzRM2D_SN2TAehY1SWNNXXwx0E5QTK0/s1600-h/15OldSwitch.jpg"><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHabJtZ6zJ8fvlZyn5pGVvZoyMquLDoOIApn8NqqgZAkQw9ZcnC7AITn_1uBAvJGA2JBsq5-BnKsyWQ1DmU8hyphenhyphen4QDjMjnw96v1wB5iBJbIdGVwwzRM2D_SN2TAehY1SWNNXXwx0E5QTK0/s320/15OldSwitch.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226082392916781938" border="0" /><br /></a><br /></span><br />This procedure worked great for me and saved some money. FYI… there is an investigation ongoing which may result in Ford having to do a recall because of this issue. So save your receipts and you might get reimbursed later. For more info on the issue go to<br /><span style="font-size:100%;"> <a href="http://fordwindstarrecall.info/">http://fordwindstarrecall.info/</a></span>Brandonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08527759716045284865noreply@blogger.com82